The few crooked blocks from my hotel to the Golden Temple are lined with shops and bike taxis. Every step is met with:
"Shoes! Good price!"
"Come in! Just looking!"
The temperature on its own is stuffy, and the mess of words and traffic and people moving in every direction adds to the heat. I arrived on a bus from McLeod Ganj. When it departed at 5am I was wearing a sweatshirt and two jackets and could see my breath in the dark, biting air. Six hours and another climate away I now walk the streets of Amritsar and mentally curse the long pants, t-shirt, and scarf that I have to wear to be modest.